How wonderful of you to offer to
foster! Please
contact us if you have a
question that is not answered in the FAQ below, which will remain under
construction with new information added as new questions are asked. You
may also want to read about the
basics of fostering.
-
What are my
responsibilities when I foster and... am I the new owner?
- How do I introduce the new cat
to my household? (Choose One)
-
My household has no other animals
living here.
- My household has one of more other cats
living here already.
-
My household has one or more other cats and a dog
living here already.
-
Are the animals that need to be fostered spayed and neutered?
-
Is there any risk to my own cats?
- What are my responsibilities when I foster, and... am I the owner?
Answer:
Before you sign up to foster, we strongly suggest that your and
the rescue you work with have a written contract, signed by both
you and the rescue, for your mutual protection and that you
understand which of you has legal ownership during the period of foster, liability for
specific costs, and the responsibility for and authority over the future adoption procedure.
We also suggest that your read more about what is involved in fostering here:
http://purebredcats.org/fostering.htm
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- How do I introduce the new cat to my household?
- My household has no other cats living here already.
Answer
Moving to a new home is
essentially stressful for a cat. A cat's basic reaction to stress is to run and hide.
If you provide a safe haven for the cat which has some familiar scents, it will ease the stress.
When you pick up the cat, in addition to the cat's regular litter box and dish, ask for the cat's toys and bedding to take with you. And item worn by the
owner (unwashed) carries the owner's scent and can also be helpful in minimizing the stress during the duration.
Upon arriving home, set up a room
that will serve as the cat's initial territory. Any small,
quiet room, such as a bathroom, small bedroom or large walk-in closet will meet this criteria.
The best arrangement is often a small bedroom with attached bathroom where you can keep the
litterbox. Keep the cat in the carrier while you are setting up the room, allowing the cat to adjust to the
sounds and smells. The room should contain litterbox, a dish of dry food and a dish of fresh
water (food and water placed far apart from the litterbox), toys, scratching post, bed,
and any other items needed by the cat.
Once the room is set up, open up the carrier, and let the cat decide whether he/she wants
to explore or to remain inside the carrier. Many times a cat will remain inside the carrier
for hours or return there periodically. Give the cat time to adjust to his/her new territory.
Come back to the room to visit often, but don't impose yourself on the cat by reaching out to pet or
attempting to pick it up - pet the cat only if the cat DEMANDS it. Talk to the cat,
avoiding making any loud noises or sudden moves.
Don't force your attention on the cat--when the cat wants affection,
the cat will ask for it. Cats are more attention-needy than most people think.
They can become bored and depressed if they are ignored, and they will start to seek you out. Your being available on a regularly scheduled basis for
at least 15-20 minutes at a time is important even if at first the cat doesn't initially take advantage of your availability.
Setting up a schedule of feeding (treats of wet food) and a routine play time and
grooming time minimizes anxiety and makes the cats feel more
secure. For instance, if you watch the news on TV every night keep the grooming supplies close at hand
so you can groom the cat while watching. The more regular the routine, the more comfortable the cat will feel.
Playtime is a special time where you can cement a bond between you and the new cat.
Many experts suggest using a feline flyer
or other similar toy which allows the cat to maintain a distance while getting to know you.
After 4-5 days if the cat appears comfortable in this room, you can open the door and let
her explore the rest of the house at her own pace. Cats usually begin investigating at night,
making short explorations interspersed with rapid retreats to their safe haven.
It is unusual for a cat to explore a vast new territory without hesitation, though some cats
are exceptions to this rule due to a more extreme level of curiousity.
Allow the cat to adapt to a new environment at his/her own speed. Some cats take days,
others will take weeks or months.
[Back to the top]
-
My household has one of more other cats living here already.
Answer
Some cats are content sharing a small space while others
want to possess and dominate the home. Some cats are naturally more sociable than others. While some cats are
particularly playful, others just want a warm, comfortable place to nap and view the outside world.
Matching personality traits and individual animals' needs/wants are factors that should be considered when
deciding whether or not to foster and whether a given cat can live in peace and comfort in your multicat household.
Neutered and spayed cats are *much* less likely to develop territorial issues than whole animals.
The introduction process is extremely important.
First impressions can be lasting impressions when it comes to cats. The range of relationships that can
develop when a new cat is introduced to a household can run the full spectrum from best friends
who share and do everything together to to all out war. Cats are territorial, and some are
clearly more territorial than others, so the time required for the introduction process
varies greatly depending on the cats involved.
Introducing cats who are strangers to each other should be done in a gradual systematic
fashion in which pleasurable experiences (food/attention/play) are associated with the
other cat(s). The key is having patience
with the process and knowing that the process takes time to accomplish
and you may be required to repeat steps in the introduction process more than once.
Throughout the introduction process, speak quietly and calmly to the cats and make no sudden moves.
Praise them generously when they are tolerant of each
other's presence, using words, toys and food as positive reinforcement. Never scold
or use harsh or loud tones when they are together or they will associate unpleasantness
with being near each other. Give special attention to the resident cat(s) to reassure them of your
loyalty and love and help minimize jealousy. Give the new cat
loving attention only during the resident cat's absence until such time as they become
true friends.
The initial stress of the move to your home may cause increased fearful or aggressive behavior,
so a settling in period is called for before introductions are made.
It is highly recommended that you assign a room to be used for temporary quarters for the new cat.
A bedroom with attached bathroom where the litter box can be kept works well, though any room,
bathroom, or even a walk-in closet will be adequate as long as they aren't heavily trafficked.
Put a litter box, dry food and water (not too close to the box), scratching post, a comfortable
bed and any cat toys in the room for the new cat, and keep the door closed. Leave the carrier in which the cat arrived
open on the floor so the cat can retreat there if he/she feels threatened. If there
was an owner previously and you can get the toys or bedding
the cat used (if not, a piece of any clothing the owner had worn will do), ask the
prevoous owner or their estate to provide that to you as it will
have the scent of home on it and help ease the stress. When you bring
the cat home, put other cats away ahead of time, so you can be sure that you can take the cat to its room
without encountering the other cat(s). Then close the door securely and go visit your
other cats. They will smell the new cat on you. Give them treats at this time.
It is often helpful to wash both your cat(s) and the new cat in the same
shampoo so that they smell similar to each other. Also, applying a spray of Feliway to each cat
& his/her bedding daily is also reported to help.
After day or two, exchange the new cat's bedding with that of the resident cat so that they can
become acquainted with each other through the all-important sense of smell before
they have the opportunity to see each other.
Next, rotate rooms daily for 2-3 days. Let the new cat explore the rest of the house while the resident cat spends some time in
the new cat's room. This will give your resident cats a
chance to smell the new cat and rub their own scent on objects. Allowing this behavior
helps prevent more dramatic displays of territorial behavior.
Feed the cats in each area with wet food twice daily, and play with the cats in each
area at least twice daily. Setting up a schedule of feeding treats
of wet food and a play time routine minimizes anxiety and makes the
cats feel more secure.
Playtime is a special time where you can cement a bond between you and the new cat.
Many experts suggest using a
feline flyer or other similar toy which allows the new cat(s) to
maintain a distance while getting to know you and, once the cats are introduced, also distracts their attention from each other while maintaining a distance from each other.
Keeping the cats in separate areas for 5-7 days allows the cats a chance become
desensitized to the smells and sounds of the cats in the other area. When they all
seem particularly relaxed with this process, begin to expose them to the sight of
each other.
At this time, you can bring the new cat(s) in a carrier
to meet your cats and sniff
each other through the carrier wire door. Place the carrier on the floor and allow
them to meet this way several times a day for about an hour. Continue these repeated
protected meetings for several days or until they remain calm in each other's presence.
When the cats are calm in each other's presence during these repeated meetings, it is time to let the new cat
out into the rest of the house for a few minutes. The length of the visits can be increased gradually each day.
This process may take a few days or a few months depending on the personalities of the cats.
If any actual fighting appears imminent while you are supervising, put the newcomer back
in his/her room and proceed more slowly. However, if they seem to tolerate each other
remain vigilant and supervise them together during these supervised times for several
days, playing with them with a feline flyer or other similar toy which allows you
and them to maintain a distance from each other and you.
If those supervised play times go well, you can begin to allow them to cohabitate in your home.
If any aggressive behavior occurs at any time, begin the introduction process again.
[Back to the top]
-
My household has one of more other cats and dogs
living here already.
Answer
Some cats are content sharing a small space while others want
to possess and dominate the home. Some cats are naturally more sociable than others.
While some cats are particularly playful, others just want a warm, comfortable place
to nap and view the outside world. Matching personality traits and individual animals'
needs/wants are factors that should be considered when deciding whether or not to
foster and whether a given cat can live in peace and comfort in your multicat household.
Neutered and spayed cats are *much* less likely to fight than whole animals.
A cat who has never lived with a dog may be very frightened, especially if
a dog is large, and it may take quite a while (if ever) for it to tolerate the dog. It is strongly advised that
such a cat not be fostered with a dog unless no other options are available. If that is the case,
suggestions on making the introductions are provided below.
The introduction process is extremely important.
First impressions can be lasting impressions when it comes to cats. The range of relationships that can
develop when a new cat is introduced to a household with other cats and a dog can run the full gamut from best friends
who share and do everything together to to all out war. Cats and dogs are territorial, and some are
clearly more territorial than others, so the time required for the introduction process
varies greatly depending on the cats and dog involved.
Introducing cats who are strangers to each other should be done in a gradual systematic
fashion in which pleasurable experiences (food/attention/play) are associated with the
other cat(s). The key is having patience
with the process and knowing that it takes time to accomplish
and you may be required to repeat steps in the introduction process more than once.
Throughout the introduction process, speak quietly and calmly to the cats and dog and make no sudden moves.
Praise them generously when they are tolerant of each
other's presence, using words, toys and food as positive reinforcement. Never scold
or use harsh or loud tones when they are together or they will associate unpleasantness
with being near each other. Give special attention to the resident cat(s) and dog to reassure them of your
loyalty and love and help minimize jealousy. Give the new cat
loving attention only during the resident cat's and dog's absence until such time as they become
true friends.
The initial stress of the move to your home may cause increased fearful or aggressive behavior,
so a settling in period is called for before introductions are made.
It is highly recommended that you assign a room to be used for
temporary quarters for the new cat.
A bedroom with attached bathroom where the litter box can be kept works well, though any room,
bathroom, or even a walk-in closet will be adequate as long as they aren't heavily trafficked.
Put a litter box, dry food and water (not too close to the box), scratching post, a comfortable
bed and any cat toys in the room for the new cat, and keep the door closed. Leave the carrier in which the cat arrived
open on the floor so the cat can retreat there if he/she feels threatened. If the
relinquishing owner has toys or bedding
the cat used (if not, a piece of any clothing the owner has worn will do as long as it hasn't been washed), ask them to provide that to you as it will
have the scent of home on it and help ease the stress. When you bring
the cat home, put other cats away ahead of time so that you can take the cat to its room
without encountering the other cat(s) or the dog. Then close the door securely and go visit your
other cats and your dog. They will smell the new cat on you. Give them treats at this time.
It is often helpful to wash both your cat(s) and the new cat in the same
shampoo so that they smell similar to each other. Also, applying a spray of Feliway
to each cat
& his/her bedding daily is also reported to help.
After day or two, exchange
the new cat's bedding with that of the resident cat so that they can
become acquainted with each other through the all-important sense of smell before
they have the opportunity to see each other.
Next, rotate rooms for a few hours daily for 2-3 days while the dog is on a lead or out in the yard.
Let the new cat explore the rest of the house while the resident cat spends some time in
the new cat's room. This will give your resident cats a
chance to smell the new cat and rub their own scent on objects. Allowing this behavior
helps prevent more dramatic displays of territorial behavior between the cats. Bring the dog into the new cat's room for a
few minutes to sniff and leave his scent during this visitation time.
Feed the cats and dog in each area with wet food twice daily, and play with the cats
and dog in each
area at least twice daily. Setting up a schedule of feeding treats of wet food and a play time routine minimizes anxiety and makes the
cats feel more secure.
Playtime is a special time where you can cement a bond between you and the new cat. Many experts suggest using a
feline flyer or other similar toy which allows the new cat(s) to
maintain a distance while getting to know you and, once the cats are introduced, also distracts their attention from each other while maintaining a distance from each other.
Keeping the cats in separate areas for 5-7 days allows the cat(s) a chance become
desensitized to the smells and sounds of the cat(s) in the other area and the scent of your dog.
When they all seem particularly relaxed with this process, begin to expose them to the sight of
each other.
At this time, you can bring the new cat(s)
in a carrier to meet your cats and sniff
each other through the carrier wire door. Place the carrier on the floor and allow
the cats and dog to meet this way several times a day for about an hour. Seeing your cats tolerate the dog will help
the new cat with accepting the dog's presence. Continue these repeated
protected meetings for several days or until they remain calm in each other's presence.
When the cats and dog are
calm in each other's presence during these repeated meetings, it is time to let the new cat
out into the rest of the house for a few minutes with the dog on a leash. If
there is more than one dog be particularly careful, as pack behavior may
occur. When it appears that the dog(s) doesn't lunge at the cat or
behave aggressively, you can put a barrier in the doorway of the room the new cat had occupied that allows the cats to back get in but not the dog, so the new cat can
escape the dog should it want to while the dog is off lead. The length of the visits can be increased gradually each day.
This process may take a few days or a few months depending on the personalities of the cats and the dog.
If any actual fighting between the cats and/or dog appears imminent while you are supervising, put the newcomer back
in his/her room and proceed more slowly. However, if they seem to tolerate each other
remain vigilant and supervise them together during these visits for several
days, playing with the cats with a
feline flyer or other similar toy which allows you
and them to maintain a distance from each other and you and the dog.
If those supervised play times go well, you can begin to allow them to cohabitate in your home.
If any aggressive behavior occurs at any time, begin the introduction process again.
[Back to the top]
- Are the animals that need to be fostered
spayed and neutered?
Answer
Whole animals may mark their territory and be
aggressive towards other cats, which could cause problems in
fostering. If the cat you receive is whole, we suggest that you
ask the rescue you are working with to provide
permission to spay/neuter unless
you have the facilities & experience to foster a whole animal
and the circumstances are such that spay/neuter is not a viable
option.
If necessary, reasonable facilities are a tiled and
little used bathroom or a cage in an area with a
linoleum floor. The abode of a whole cat should be
easily cleanable and urine resistant unless it becomes
clear over time that the cat doesn't mark his/her
territory or is so old that their territoriality has
diminished.
[
Back to the top]
-
Is there any risk to my own cats?
Answer
Minimally, a shelter, relinquishing owner, or a veterinarian should provide proof of recent negative FIV (Feline
Immunodeficiency Virus) & FELV (Feline Leukemia Virus) testing, a veterinary assessment of the cat to rule out
contagious diseases, and evidence of up to date vaccinations. A relinquishing owner should be asked to
provide a complete veterinary history of the cat including vaccine history and illnesses, if possible.
Given this information, your veterinarian will be in a position to
advise you of any potential risk to your cats. Generally, an indoor only
cat which has tested negative for FIV and FeLV and passed a veterinary
exam will pose little danger to your pet if vetted and initially quarantined
for three weeks or longer (while remaining apparently healthy).
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